Climbing The Pink Dome: Enchanted Rock
A Massive Pink Granite Dome That Is 1,825 Feet Above Sea Level That Covers 640 Acres Where People Can Go Rock Climbing And Socialize
One of Texas’ most famous natural landmark is a giant pink rock. Enchanted Rock in Fredericksburg is a massive pink granite dome that is 1,825 feet above sea level at the summit and the entire dome covers 640 acres.
Doug Cochran, the Park Superintendent at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area, said the first words that came out of his mouth when he saw the granite dome was, “That’s a HUGE rock.” Doug says most people that visit for the first time are amazed by the sheer size of Enchanted Rock. Enchanted Rock is in the hill country of Texas. Most first-time visitors to this part of Texas are pleasantly surprised about the area’s rolling topography. Given that most of Texas is known for its relatively flat terrain, the hill country is comprised of many springs, stony hills, and steep canyons.
“When you’re about five miles out you can see the rock,” says Doug, “as get closer, it just gets bigger and bigger.” The drive to Enchanted Rock is amazing. Texas residents voted the drive from Llano to Enchanted Rock as their number one favorite scenic drive. “It’s a very impressive first view coming from Fredericksburg,” Doug describes, “you come around this bend in the road and then the big valley opens up with a view of Enchanted rock. The road is lined with Texas bluebells and other wildflowers in the summer, and at the end of this beautiful road lies the main dome.”
John Deas, Owner and Head Guide at Texas Climbing Adventures in Fredericksburg, recalls the first time he saw Enchanted Rock, “My jaw just dropped. It’s a massive, almost blob of pink granite rock.” When he recovered from witnessing the sheer size of the rock, like a true climber he asked, “where’s the climbing?” From the onset, it looks like the rock is not suitable for climbing. “As you get closer and you start exploring the area, you find all the different climbing areas and it all just connects. It just keeps giving,” says John.
Enchanted rock in not just a hiking and camping destination in the Texas Hill Country, but a popular destination for new and seasoned rock climbers. “There’s been an explosion lately in indoor climbing gyms that has gotten a lot of people interested in rock climbing,” says John. Many newbie climbers head to Enchanted Rock from Houston, Austin and nearby suburbs. John says the best thing about climbing here is that “it has this retro feel to it. The style of climbing out there has an old school, bold feel like how it was in the 80’s and 90’s.” There is plenty of limestone in Texas, but not a lot of granite. “There is a really great mix of cracks and slabs and even some aid climbing which is really unique to have all that in the same place,” says John.
If climbing and hiking isn’t your thing, Enchanted Rock offers a plethora of scenic views and nature. “We have 900 documented flora in the park including Rock Quillwort and Texas Bluebells,” says Doug, “and an amazing bird habitat. I’ve seen painted buntings, herons, and a lot of finches.” Then there’s the geology of the area itself. Enchanted Rock is the visible part of a massive batholith that stretches 62 square miles, most of which is underground. On the level portions of the rock are vernal pools where water collects in low spots. These pools are host to unique plants and animals such as Fairy Shrimp and plankton.
However, it is the history and legends that shroud Enchanted Rock in mystery and awe that make it a favorite travel destination for Texans. The rock got its name from the folklore of local Tonkawa, Apache and Comanche tribes which ascribed magical and spiritual powers to the rock. Some of the spiritual “powers” of the rock are its ability to speak and the “ghost fires” seen at night.
“The native Americans have been here for over 11,000 years,” says Doug, “some of the folklore that is abound is the notion that there are spirits on the summit because they could hear them “speaking” to them at night.” Doug further explains that the “speaking” is the creaking and groaning of the rock. “at certain of the year when the rock heats up during the day and cools down at night,” he says, “reportedly, you can hear the creaking and groaning of the rock from the expansion and contraction of the granite.” Doug has been on staff for four years and has not hear the dome speak yet, but he keeps an ear out just in case.
As for the "ghost fires", Tonkawa Indians saw a flickering on top of the dome. This flickering isn't from angry spirits at all. The rock glitters on clear nights after rain and scientists think the glittering is reflections from collected water or wet feldspar. Nonetheless, Enchanted Rock has fascinated humans for thousands of years and the legends continue. “The most famous legend we get asked is about the Texas Ranger, Captain Jack Coffee Hayes that single handedly held off a band Comanche Indians from a perch on Enchanted Rock,” says Doug. Legend has it that Hayes was cut off from his company of Rangers and managed to hold off the Comanche in a three-hour battle until they gave up more determined that the rock was possessed by malevolent spirits.
Even with all the great natural history and perfect rock climbing surface, Doug and John love Enchanted Rock for special reasons. “My favorite thing about Enchanted Rock is all the people I get to meet and interact with, “says David, “just seeing how many people from the different regions of Texas, the US and the world have heard about this place is the best part of my job.” John likes to climb in the early morning, but loves to climb right before dusk. “The sunsets are beautiful. The way the sunset bounces off the pink granite gives off a neat warm glow. It’s amazing,” says John.
Enchanted Rock Natural Area has something for everyone. Some visitors are drawn to its summit, others seek to hear phantom sounds of the rock speaking on starry nights or catch glimpses of the ghost lights. Whatever the reason, Enchanted Rock is truly one of the great places in the US worth visiting.
Debbie Wolfe
A graduate of Northland College with degrees in Creative Writing and Earth Sciences, Debbie has written for HGTV, DIYNetwork, Sheknows and more. She enjoys gardening, reading and fostering dogs.
Make Sure To Stay At:
Fredericksburg KOA, within a few short miles of the area's best attractions. Exclusive shopping, art galleries, elegant dining and the famous National Museum of the Pacific War await you.