Thirteen miles from Baltimore and about 30 from Washington, DC, are the suburbs and countryside of Howard County, Maryland. While better-known for being a bedroom community for area commuters than for tourism, tourists have flocked to Howard County for decades, drawn by its impressive history, quaint towns, and the array of shopping and dining.
One of the biggest draws is Ellicott City, established in 1772 as a mill town taking advantage of water power provided by the Patapsco River. Main Street, part of the historic National Road, is lined with 18th and 19th-century buildings, many built from locally quarried granite. Today, those building house antique stores, unusual boutiques, cafes, and museums.
Amanda Hof, director of the Howard County Visitors Center spiritedly says, “Ellicott City’s location just off I-95 along the Baltimore-Washington corridor makes it a perfect overnight spot for people who come to visit the Inner Harbor in Baltimore or tour DC.” She adds, “People can spend a weekend just enjoying the bed and breakfasts, cafes, and coffee shops.” Daniel Robeson with the Antiques Depot in the historic downtown agrees: “Ellicott City has that small town feel. There’s great shopping, restaurants, and an eclectic mix of locally-owned stores with stuff you don’t see elsewhere.”
Visitors can enjoy several free historic sites while in town: the B&O railroad museum which is the oldest surviving railroad station in America; the Patapsco Female Institute; the Ellicott City Colored School; and, the Ellicott City Fire Station Museum. The visitor’s center, housed in a circa 1940 post office is also a great stop. There’s a growing list of events and festivals including girls nights out, courtyard concerts, and outdoor movie nights.
After being devastated by floods in 2016 and 2018, Ms. Hof notes that the town is working toward becoming a bigger and better Ellicott City as it reopens. Part of that is working to appeal to a younger demographic. The gleaming mid-century dealership Retropolitan is part of the new breed - inside Taylor’s Collective, an artist-owned, multi-floor art and crafts destination with 50 vendors. Nearby, Jaxon Edwin which opened in 2017, is a men’s boutique housing a barber shop, watch shop, nitro coffee bar, golf-themed lounge, and bourbon bar.
Historic Savage Mill buildings [Photo/William Flood]
This former historic cotton mill in Savage, Maryland has been turned into a complex of antique shops, boutiques, and restaurants. The mill originally produced cotton duck used for making sailcloth for Baltimore clipper ships and tents for the Union forces during the Civil War. On the grounds, the Bollman iron truss bridge spanning the Little Patuxent River is the last standing Bollman bridge in the world and a National Historic Landmark. The entire complex was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1974. The surrounding village, referred to as the Savage Mill Historic District is comprised of mill workers’ houses and other buildings dating from the early 19th to early 20th-centuries.
Today, Savage Mill features 30 stores, seven cafes and restaurants, and over a half-dozen artists’ studios. It’s also home to Terrapin Adventures with on-site ropes courses, zip line, and climbing tower. Terrapin Adventures also offers outdoor adventures like biking, kayaking, caving, backpacking, tubing, and geocaching.
The mill has an ongoing calendar of events including girls’ nights out, Christmas events, Easter egg hunts, craft classes, and live entertainment.
Columbia is one of the best examples of the mid-20th-century New Town Movement. Developer James Rouse fostered the idea that private developers could create a unique quality of life by blending the best of city and country living with good planning.
Columbia was designed around ten self-contained villages, each with their own schools, shopping, recreation facilities, and interfaith centers. Villages are connected by a system of walking/bike paths; the centerpiece Town Center (now called “The Mall at Columbia”) anchors it all.
Rouse believed that nature should be reserved throughout and added three man-made lakes and reserved natural areas for wildlife habitat. Rouse’s was also a proponent of class and racial equality, marketing Columbia as being “color blind” and developed good housing for any income group along with the commercial backdrop to provide well-paying jobs right in the community.
Columbia, MD celebrated its 50th birthday in 2017. From 2006 forward, Columbia has consistently ranked in the top of Money magazine’s “100 Best Places to Live” in the United States.
Across Howard County there are some 75 restaurants; everything from comfort food to any kind of ethnic cuisine is available. With over 300 area farms, local farm-to-table is commonplace. Sprinkle in a little Maryland seafood and the county offers a dining adventure you'll regret leaving.
The jewel of that culinary adventure may be the local craft beer scene. Amada Hof discussed how the craft beer culture in Maryland is growing. “From 2014 to today, Maryland went from 60 to over 100 breweries,” she said. There are nearly a dozen craft brewers and brewpubs in Howard County, along with a growing number of distilleries and wineries. When a Porter or IPA calls your name, there are great choices, including:
Ellicott Mills Brewing Company - opened in 1997 when craft breweries were rare. The restaurant is located on Main Street in the heart of old Ellicott City. Their calling card is an authentic German Lager system designed to produce very smooth beers which are available exclusively at the restaurant. Their menu features everything from wild game to southern inspired dishes and Maryland seafood.
Jailbreak Brewing Company - is located along historic U.S. Route 1 in Laurel, Maryland. The unusual name was coined by the two founders who “broke out” of their cubicle jobs as Beltway contractors to pursue their dream of owning a brewery. Jailbreak offers over 50 draft beers per year across a range of varieties including Stouts, Belgians, and IPAs. Their gold-medal winning Van Dammit is a Belgian Strong Dark. A recently added kitchen offering artisanal pub food is headed by Fred Malinis who previously served as executive chef for Governor Larry Hogan.
Manor Hill Tavern - in Old Ellicott City, features beers brewed at nearby Manor Hill farm. The historic circa 1820s building was originally a livery stable with architectural features like exposed stone walls, barn doors, and original beams. Megan Purcell, the event coordinator says, “Manor Hill was the first farm brewery in Howard County. It’s a true family-run business”. They feature New England Hazy IPA, award-winning Pilsners, and a New England style pineapple Citra. Their menu emphasizes wood-fired pizzas and sandwiches.
The best option for an overnight RV stay is 16,000-acre Patapsco State Park, extending 32 miles along the Patapsco River. There are eight recreational areas providing opportunities for camping, hiking, canoeing, and fishing, among other activities.
The Hollofield camping area contains 73 classically wooded sites with five pull-throughs. These are not full hookup sites and only 30-amp electric is available. Bathhouses and potable water pumps are conveniently located. The park is open from April until the season closing in fall.