Paradise may not be lost after all; it can be found in the Southwest corner of Oregon, just over the California line. The area is defined by the Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest to the north and east and by the Pacific Ocean and inviting small towns of Brookings and Harbor to the southwest. Flowing through it is the 55-mile long Chetco River, a haven for hiking, fishing, and water sports. Visitors can enjoy both spectacular mountain and ocean scenery along with outdoor recreation opportunities and harbor town charm.
The Chetco is one of three rivers that flow through the Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest that have been congressionally classified as National Wild and Scenic Rivers. Over 44 miles of the Chetco - from its headwaters in the Kalmiopsis Wilderness to the lower boundary of the National Forest - are designated as Wild & Scenic.
The Chetco River and its adjacent areas provide an array of recreational activities. Some of the best salmon and trout fishing in Oregon can be found here. Wildlife lovers will rejoice at the opportunity to spot bears, bald eagles, and river otters. Hikers can enjoy the scent of Ponderosa Pines or spy the northernmost stands of Redwoods in the continental United States.
The Chetco River
According to the U.S. Forest Service, the Chetco River drops impressively from 3,700 feet to sea-level at the Pacific Ocean near Brookings, creating a remarkable landscape along its path.
Think of its course as having two distinct sections: the upper river and lower river. The upper river is the portion federally designated and is categorized into three segments: the wild portion traverses approximately 20 miles from the headwaters to Mislatnah Creek; the scenic portion runs 8 miles from Mislatnah Creek to Eagle Creek; and, an 11-mile recreational segment runs from Eagle Creek to the Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest boundary. Fishing and whitewater sports are this area’s draw.
The lower river is where the river flattens out and becomes tamer and more accessible. Fishing is popular here, too, as are calmer activities like swimming, sightseeing and picnicking.
Intense kayaking through upper Chetco River. [Photo/Zachary Collier-CC]
Fishing
If fishing is your passion, the area offers ample opportunity for both freshwater and ocean fishing. The upper stretch of the Chetco is renown as a “big fish” river, among Oregon’s best areas for pursuing salmon, steelhead or cutthroat trout. Catches of 30-pound to 40-pounds are common and salmon catches can exceed 50-pounds.
If you need one, licensed fishing guides are available to float protected areas. However, because of the protected status, there is a limit to how many guides are allowed to work the upper river. It’s best to make reservations well in advance.
If you’re heading out on your own, there are multiple points for boat access. Be advised, the river can be quite busy when fishing is good and no motors are allowed in the upper river; so, you’ll need a drift boat. Boat or not, there are sand and gravel bars where anglers can enjoy casting a line.
If you prefer salt water, there is great ocean fishing compliments of the flattest sandbar in Oregon just off the coast. Chinook runs in the fall provide great offshore and harbor fishing. Halibut fishing is also popular, and there is also a winter steelhead run into the sea. Anglers can set up at the public fishing dock or south jetty in Brookings. There is a small charter fleet available for offshore fishing.
Watersports
During the summer, particularly on the south fork of the river, water sports are popular including rafting and kayaking. The river has earned a rightful reputation for its crystal-clear water. Luke Martinez one of the principals of Wilderness Canyon Adventures calls it “Gin clear” adding, “In pools, you can see 25-feet to the bottom.”
Whitewater kayaking and “floating” is the upper river’s draw, with narrow canyons, gorges, and numerous Class-4 rapids. Northwest Rafting Company says, “The upper Chetco is intense nearly the whole way through. It is not for the faint-of-heart.”
The uppermost reaches of the river have little access and float trips through the upper gorges require hiking in. Accessing the river via the lower gorges eliminates the hike but provide a journey nearly as impressive. There are several access points along that portion of the river in both the recreational and scenic segments.
As the river moves west towards the Pacific, it comes more of a broad channel traveling through lush forestland. Floating the lower Chetco offers miles of forest scenery, including an opportunity to see some of those Redwood groves.
Mandatory permits are required year-round to float the Chetco. Free self-issuing permits are available. Again, motorized boat use is not permitted on any of the federally-designated river segments.
RV Camping
RV camping for the upper river is available in Alfred Loeb State Park. The park’s weekend ranger noted that there are 65 full hookup spaces plus an additional 29 spaces with limited hookups. They can accommodate up to 57-foot vehicles but there are only a few spaces that large.
The situation is different at the Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest. Rangers there said, “The forest roads are often undeveloped; many campgrounds near the Chetco are hike-in or only accommodate small trailers. A few of those are on river bars.” So, RV camping options are limited there. “RVs can camp in the forest, but it’s generally primitive camping alongside side the road or at a couple of the Forest Service campgrounds.” Day use of campsites, river bars, and other facilities is free. But, fees are required for any overnight stays.
Outlying sections of the Forest offer better RV camping facilities but those are not necessarily near to the Chetco River. A good alternative is staying along the lower river where RV camping options are numerous, including:
Harris Beach State Park - On the beach north of Brookings, offering 65 full hookup and 25 limited hookup sites.
AtRivers Edge RV Resort - Two miles east of Brookings, featuring 125 full hookup sites; several are pull-through. The park has a half-mile of private river access.
Driftwood RV Park - At the Port of Brookings-Harbor. There are over 100 full hookup sites; several are pull-through. The park is a 5-minute walk to the beach.
Riverside RV Resort - Located at the eastern edge of Brookings. There are 25+ spaces; six are pull-through. The park is family owned.
Chetco RV Park - Conveniently located off Highway 101 in Harbor. 123 spaces; 85 are pull-through. It is the largest long-term RV park in the area.
The Oregon Coast near Brookings. [Photo/Wikimedia Commons]
Brookings/Harbor Area
Brookings is a quaint seaport town with a population of about 7,500. The harbor is Oregon’s busiest recreational port. The area carries the nickname the “banana belt” known for its mild climate.
At the north end of Brookings is Harris Beach State Park which attracts visitors year-round drawn to its sandy beaches, sea stacks (columns of rock in the ocean left by erosion) and opportunities for spotting marine life including gray whales, harbor seals, and sea lions. Offshore, Goat Island is a breeding ground for rare birds including tufted puffins. Note: access to all offshore rocks including Goat Island is prohibited as they are protected as part of the Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge.
The famous Thomas Creek Bridge is located just north of Brookings. It’s Oregon’s highest bridge and amazingly scenic, crossing a deep valley with vistas of the Pacific Ocean. It is located on Highway 101 - a Pacific coast drive not to be missed.
Getting There
The best way to reach the Wild and Scenic portions of the river is to travel inland starting from Brookings/Harbor. If you are anywhere near the coast, begin on Highway 101 heading towards Northbank Chetco River Road (route 784). At 784, turn inland and follow the signs towards Alfred Loeb State Park. Northbank Chetco River Road will eventually take you into the Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest.
Traveler’s Note: this is one of the unfortunate area plagued by wildfires in recent years. Certain areas reopened in 2018 after being closed due to wildfires in 2017 that burned over 100,000 acres. This year is proving to be another active fire season in the state; so, it’s best to contact the forest service to confirm conditions and restrictions before making travel plans.
Destinations, Oregon, Outdoors, Parks & Recreation, Wildlife