Wandering Through The Impetus Of Time , Suffering & Rebellion In Lava Beds National Monument
In a truly remote section of Northeastern California lies one of the United States National Park System’s most secluded treasures; Lava Beds National Monument. Sitting just South of the Oregon border, Lava Beds is a paragon of the NPS’s mission to preserve the country’s natural and cultural resources for enjoyment, education, and inspiration but its isolated location also makes Lava Beds one of the least known monuments in the country. In 2015 the park received just 108,667 visitors, ranking it 229th out of the 368 sites the National Park Service oversees. On the other hand, Blue Ridge Parkway, the number one destination, had over 15,000,000.
Despite its remote location and small numbers, Lava Beds has been set aside and maintained for good reason. The park is overflowing with activities, information, and fun for any who make the time to go there. According to Chief of Visitor Services, Patrick Taylor, being surprised at what the park has to offer is pretty much the norm for their clientele. “We hear that all the time. Most people wish they’d known more about us and set aside an extra day or two for exploring everything we have to offer,” says Taylor. “We think being a little less known is a good thing. You may see other people while you’re here but overall it can be a much more private experience.”
What makes Lava Beds so enticing is the combination of outdoor adventure and deep history rolled together into one unforgettable experience. Come to explore miles of underground lava tubes but stay to learn something about our country’s roots and the often chaotic settlement of the West.
At its heart Lava Beds is a geological wonder created by volcanic eruptions from the Medicine Lake shield volcano. As a result the rugged landscape features a wide variety of volcanic formations including fumaroles, cinder cones, spatter cones, pit craters, lava fields and entire volcanic fields but the main attractions of this high desert area are the lava tube caves created more than 30,000 years ago.
Formed by basaltic lava flowing downhill these cylindrical formations burrow throughout the park and the desert landscape above. As of this writing there are over 800 known caves, with more being discovered each year, thus comprising the largest concentration of lava tube caves in North America. Nearly all the underground caverns are open to the public with about two dozen of them fully developed with stairs, easy access, and in some cases electric lighting. Not all the caves are easily accessible or easily navigated though. For the more adventurously inclined there is a full range of difficulty level. “By far the most adventurous is the Catacombs Cave,” says Taylor, “It’s over a mile long and a full third of that is spent crawling or wriggling on your belly. You can come out of there pretty beat up.”
The lava tubes may give the monument its name but they are far from the only attraction the place has to offer. “People come here thinking they will just see a volcanic landscape but most are surprised by how much history there is as well,” states Taylor. In addition to its long history of homesteading, Lava Beds National Monument now incorporates nearby Tule Lake which features one of the largest World War II internment camps in the United States, housing just over 18,000 Japanese Americans from 1942-1946. Yet the real history at Lava Beds lies in the stones themselves as these igneous rocks literally formed the defenses for a small band of Native American warriors who stood their ground against the US Army in what has come to be known as the Modoc War.
From 1872-1873 a mere 52 Modoc warriors, along with roughly 120 women and children, held out against 10-1 odds in a bid to retain their ancestral lands. Led by Kintpuash, otherwise known as Captain Jack, the Modoc’s were fed up with the poor treatment they were receiving at the Klamath reservation the US Government had given them in an 1864 treaty so they returned to their lands in the Tule Lake region.
After failed peace talks the US Army instructed Major John Green, from Fort Klamath, to remove the Modocs by force if necessary. The Battle of Lost River ensued after which Captain Jack and his group entrenched themselves into a section of the lava beds now known as Capt. Jack’s Stronghold. After multiple battles and failed peace talks the army of over 600 men and artillery pieces, led by General Edward Canby, cut off the Modoc’s water supply, forcing them out of the stronghold. Capt. Jack was captured and executed shortly thereafter.
Now a California Historical Landmark, Captain Jack’s Stronghold can be fully explored on foot with markers designating lookouts, sniper nests, assembly areas, and smoke-stained caves where the 150 Modocs lived and fought for the better part of a year. In addition to various commemorative plaques the site also features Canby’s Cross, a memorial to the General who was murdered by Capt. Jack during peace talks. Canby is the only US General killed during the Indian Wars.
With this kind of history existing alongside the serpentine catacombs of the lava caves and volcanic formations it’s easy to see why the site was declared a National Monument in 1925. While it may remain a hidden gem for the moment it is hard to believe that this anonymity will last much longer. Landscapes as rich as this one are irresistible and destined for discovery.
Michael Quinn
A graduate of St. Louis University in Communications with a focus in Advertising & Promotions, Michael has worked for Blue Man Group, Oito Zero Oito and Counts Media among others. His interests include DJing and Lawn Mower Disrepair.
Make Sure To Stay At:
Eagle's Nest RV Park, where a million acres of pristine wilderness surround the park, offering abundant recreational opportunities for visitors. They have prepared and groomed our own hiking trails on our hillside compromised of 36 acres