Located in the southwestern corner of Texas is the town of Terlingua. It is a major draw for tourists, partly due to its location close to Big Bend National Park and partly due to its history of mercury mining that left a ghost town in its wake. But on the first weekend in November, it’s not ghostly apparitions that are the draw; instead it’s the possibility of sighting ghost peppers – in the chili.
This town of 58 residents grows by 10,000 for those attending one of the two original Terlingua Chili Cookoffs that take place on the same weekend about 15 miles apart. It causes confusion for the visitors, and both events claim the same 52-year history.
According to its history, the event was organized in 1967 by Frank X Tolbert and Wick Fowler. The purpose at the time was to settle once and for all the culinary argument about who knew more about chili, Texans or outsiders.
While both cook-offs share the same origins, a falling out and a court battle over the rights to claim the Chili Appreciation Society International (CASI) name in 1983 ended in a separation that resulted in an unfriendly situation with hot and heavy competition between the court victors and the Tolbert Family’s camp of supporters. According to Kathleen Tolbert Ryan, the daughter of one of the founders and the president of the Tolbert group sponsored event, relations are amicable today, with both events helping bring money into the region.
“People come from all over,” Tolbert Ryan said. “We do a lot of good for the economy.”
Debbie Eiland Turner, who had just started cooking in Terlingua in 1983 when the organization split, is the event coordinator for the Original Terlingua International Championship Chili Cookoff, often referred to as the Tolbert group.
Turner said the Tolbert site is smaller, but has a loyal following and delivers nightly musical entertainment. Plus, proceeds from this event are donated to Terlingua High School, EMS, and the Folkloric dancers at the high school, according to Tolbert Ryan. This event also raises money for ALS research and cure, donating an average of $20,000 per year. This year, long-time friend and supporter Tom Nall will add to the fundraising pot by donating $70,000 raised from a horseback ride he organized.
Judges deliberate during one of the chili cookoffs in Terlingua. [Photo/Kathleen Tolbert Ryann]
The CASI cook off is also a fundraiser. Proceeds from their event fund local charities and organizations, as well as CASI’s scholarship program.
When she fields questions about the chili cookoff from first-time attendees, Turner said she makes sure to let them know some critical points.
“I first warn them about accommodations. Most are booked up months in advance, although recently, more vacation rentals are being set up,” she said. “If they plan on camping, I let them know that most RV parks are also filled up close to the site. But if they can dry camp, they can do that on-site and there is no additional entry charge for camping.”
Tuner also warns guests to bring most of what they will need as prices are high and availability low.” I warn them about the weather, it can change dramatically, so be ready for hot and cold,” she explains. “I’ve worn long johns and heavy coats in the morning to then strip down to shorts and t-shirts by the afternoon. And study shoes are advisable.” It is a desert after all.
Fifteen miles away, the CASI event also has its fans.
Kris Hudspeth, president of CASI, estimates that 90 percent of the approximate 6,000 attendees arrive in an RV. “This can range from pop-up trailers on up to Dutch Stars and Prevost motorhomes,” Hudspeth recalls. “We also have a handful of attendees that prefer to tent camp and some that stay in the local hotels.
One of the returning RV campers is Susan Armand, of Houston. “I have competed in the CASI cookoff at in Terlingua for many years,” she said. “I usually arrive 8-9 days prior to the cook-off and dry camp on site the entire time. Because the only option for camping at the CASI ranch is dry camping, having an RV is a luxury.”
With both sites offering the same limited accommodations for cooks and visitors, staking out a spot and making it home for the better part of one or two weeks is common. Neither site offers hookups. Facilities are limited and many campers who are staying for more than a few days have to travel to town to fill jugs with water for washing dishes or showering inside their RV, Armand said.
But RV camping in Terlingua is not the goal. Enjoying the celebration of the National Dish of Texas is the reason so many are willing to rough it out. Both events offer Saturday finals for the Best of the Best Chili cooked by the best teams on site. Up until that culmination, however, there are other competitions featuring other foods.
The Tolbert group cook-off has chefs squaring off on who can make the best Verde, margarita mix, salsa, chicken and black-eyed peas, among other meats and side dishes. At CASI, non-chili competitions include traditional and non-traditional salsa, buffalo hot wings and beans.
“We also have a number of events that are open to the public to enter, judge, or just sit back and watch,” explained Kris Hudspeth.
Visitors to both competitions will have the opportunity to see the top cooks in action. While the atmosphere is fun and festive, it is also first and foremost a competition.
“This is a very serious competition,” Turner said. “People have to qualify to be able to cook in the Championship and take that very seriously. Many people cook all year long, spending lots of time and money in hopes of getting qualified to cook at the Championship.
“But, luckily mixed in with that serious few hours when they are cooking their pot of chili, there is a fun side to the process,” she continued. “We make lifelong friends, meet new friends, get to travel to new places and raise money for charities. And all that is topped off by spending time in the Big Bend of Texas with its breathtaking scenery.”
Hudspeth, with CASI, agreed. “First, just from the Big Bend area alone, you would be hard pressed to find a more scenic, beautiful environment than Terlingua. From the picturesque views to the majestic sunrises to the legendary Terlingua Stars, the nature and beauty of the Big Bend are second to none.”
“There is a hill close to our main stage that is a nice walk to the top, but once you've made it, the view is spectacular,” Turner recalled. “Doing it at night, although somewhat tricky through the plants, is something one will never forget.” The stars are incredible and so beautiful to witness at night.
“Another breathtaking moment is waking before many start stirring and the action takes place. Sitting in silence, watching the stars and other heavenly things is a moment of pure peace,” Turner continued. “When the sun starts rising, the colors are stunning when reflecting on the mountains and clouds. Even photographs don't seem to capture the beauty more than through your own eyes.”
Both events start on Wednesday, Oct. 31 and continue through Saturday, Nov. 2. Admission is $40 for both cook-offs.