Within minutes of crossing the border between England and Wales you are immediately aware that you have entered a different country. Signs quickly begin to appear in Welsh as well as English, and the countryside changes dramatically. Gone are the rolling hills of England, ahead are the high mountains of Snowdonia, and a beautiful coastline with stunning beaches.
Be prepared for some unusual names, which may be hard to pronounce! The Welsh language is a very distinctive tongue. Lots of visitors head for the Isle of Anglesey and have a photo taken against the name of one of the villages – Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch, (which means Saint Mary’s church in the hollow of the white hazel near a rapid whirlpool and the Church of St Tysilio of the Red Cave).
Distances are deceptive when travelling in Wales – especially North Wales. The coastal roads are reasonably flat and quick, but can be extremely busy especially in the summer season. Head inland and the roads change dramatically. Expect twisting, curving roads that in some areas are quite narrow, even single track in places and often with steep gradients. Traffic can be slow, especially if you are caught behind a vehicle struggling to cope with the gradients, or meet up with a herd of sheep strolling across the road. Patience is essential, but it is worth it as you can really enjoy the spectacular views. Most people visit the area within the period from Easter to the end of October. Winter is less common simply because the weather can be treacherous including snow, ice and heavy rain. Although many tourist destinations, such as the various steam trains, are closed over winter, there are still places open and things to do all year round.
There are lots of camping and caravan sites scattered around Snowdonia, most of which operate from Easter to late October. It is worth checking out websites like Snowdonia-Wales.net and this UK campsite website which provide a lot of useful suggestions. Most of the largest sites are situated on the coast, especially near resorts like Llandudno, Rhyl and Barmouth. Yet there are also many smaller ones worth considering often operated by farmers living within the mountains. A typical example is Llechrwd Riverside Campsite at Llechrwd Farm, Maentwrog - a small family run site in the heart of the Snowdonia National Park.
Riding the Snowdon Mountain Railway [Photo/Snowdon Mountain Railway]
Take the opportunity to try the local Welsh produce as some really great food and drink are made in the area. Welsh lamb has long been a speciality, prized for its succulent meat. Also worth trying are Welsh cakes, Welsh pancakes, and Bara Brith cake. Snowdonia cheese is actually matured in former slate caves at Blaenau Festiniog. In recent years, there has been a tremendous growth in the number of craft beers being produced, such as Purple Moose in Porthmadog and the Great Orme Brewery in Llandudno. New this year is a Welsh Whisky and Gin company, Aber Falls, which produces some unusual varieties like Marmalade Gin. You can actually visit the site near Conwy and enjoy a guided tour around the distillery.
A great way to explore Snowdonia is via its numerous heritage railways. Many of these are steam hauled trains providing access to scenic views you could only otherwise reach by foot. At 3,560 feet, Snowdon is the highest mountain in Wales and it can take several hours to walk to the top. Taking the Snowdon Mountain Railway is a good alternative as the journey takes approximately an hour, snaking its way along the mountainside. On a clear day, the views are stunning, but bear in mind that weather conditions can change rapidly and for safety, train journeys may have to be terminated at the Rocky Valley, about three quarters of the way up. Just across the road from the Snowdon Mountain Railway, is the Llanberis Lake Railway, which takes you around one of the prettiest lakes in Snowdonia.
The Ffestiniog and Welsh Highland Railways offer two very different routes. The Welsh Highland Railway is the longest journey stretching for 25 miles between Caernafon and Porthmadog passing through the foothills of Snowdon, the Aberglaslyn Pass and Beddelgert. It takes about two hours each way. The Ffestiniog railway is the oldest railway in the world still operating trains, as well as being the oldest narrow gauge railway. The route covers 13.5 miles between Porthadog and Blaenau Ffestiniog. It is quite an experience, since you travel in the original carriages, pulled by the original locomotives. The route climbs 700 feet from sea level into the mountains, and at one point includes a unique spiral track where you can often glimpse the end of the train farther down the line.
UK campers boondocking on the cliff side in Snowdonia at Cae Du Campsite.
One of the more unusual Welsh railways is the Great Orme Tramway at Llandudno. It is only a mile long, but it is a fascinating route snaking its way through narrow streets up to the open heights of the Great Orme where you can visit a Bronze Age Copper mine, Iron Age Fort as well as some superb scenery. The copper mine is one of the most important archaeological sites in the UK, ranking with Stonehenge in terms of historical importance.
Llandudno itself is a coastal town built by Victorians as a seaside resort. Among its most famous visitors was a certain Lewis Carroll who penned some chapters of his famous children’s books while staying in the town. And not only that – Alice Liddell and her family often used to stay here. So it is not surprising to find an Alice in Wonderland trail around the town. You can obtain a trail map from the Tourist Information Center, highlighting the numerous wooden statues of The White Rabbit, Red Queen, Mad Hatter and many more. In addition, an Alice themed mosaic can be spotted. It can take three or four hours to find all the locations, but it is well worth the effort as you discover some amazing sights.
The medieval castles of Harlech, Carnarfon, Conwy, Beaumaris should not be missed. All are world heritage sites. These are castles built by Edward I to impress and dominate, a clear assertion of authority. Despite the passage of time, they are remarkably intact, with visitors able to explore the ramparts and turrets.
Equally fascinating are the reminders of the slate industry, which once employed thousands of people. Slate from north Wales was shipped all over the world, including the USA, leading to comments at the time that they were roofing the world. At Llanberis, you can visit the National Slate Museum. Walking through the gates, it feels as if time has stopped, as if the workmen had just put down their tools and left. A row of houses reveals the conditions in which they lived, and how lifestyles changed over decades. Tools lie on benches, the equipment for cutting and preparing the slate still in situ. There are tales of industrial unrest to discover, as well as slate splitting demonstrations showing the sheer amount of skill involved.
The Electric Mountain tours from Llanberis are set to recommence later next year. Pre-booking is essential as they are very popular. You are taken by coach into the massive caverns cut out by the quarrymen, some of which are big enough to house Big Ben and the Parliament buildings in London! No quarrying takes place here nowadays, instead it is the site of one of the UK’s biggest electric power stations.
Head down to Blaenau Festiniog to visit the Llechwedd Slate Caverns, where you can take a Deep Mine Tour into the caverns deep within the earth. A steep funicular railway takes you down to the base of the cathedral sized caverns, and then it is a walk through time discovering the conditions in which the miners worked, how they cut the slate from the walls, and passing some partly submerged caverns. If you have time, it is worth combining this tour with a Quarry Explorer Tour which involves an off road adventure to heights of over 1,500 ft in an ex-military truck, taking in historic mining sites some of which are over 300 years old. If you like zip line experiences you can do that too – this is the site of the longest zip line in the UK.
About an hour or so further on, leads you to the unusual Italianate village of Portmerion. This is a private village, built over a hundred years ago by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis using building materials recycled from all over North Wales. Stroll through the narrow streets bordered by distinctive houses painted in classic Mediterranean colors like blue and yellow, relax in the piazza with a pizza, sit in the cool garden or explore the little quay. If you are a fan of the classic cult series The Prisoner, the setting will look a little familiar. After all, this is where the entire series was filmed! Nowadays, Portmerion is a popular tourist attraction, with many people choosing to stay overnight in one of the many village houses, the pub or the hotel.