Heading east across the US 190 bridge over Lake Livingston, Texas yields an interesting sight. At the base of the bridge, an oasis of palm trees seems to beckon, which is quite a paradoxical difference from the tall pines that crowd every other shore of the lake. This area is known as the Piney Woods, an official region of East Texas with more than 54,000 square miles of pine forest. These palm trees speak of tropical beaches and long days of relaxation...a diamond in the rough.
The palms mark the shore of the Lake Livingston/Onalaska KOA, and the tropical feel is here by design. “I have property in the Caribbean, and I originally planned on opening a resort in the Virgin Islands,” co-park owner Marc Cooke tells The Buzz. “But this piece of property on Lake Livingston became available in 2006. It was run down but had such a beautiful view across the water. We decided to create a tropical setting right here in East Texas.”
Marc and Jay, his brother, co-owner business partner, had their own vision of what a campground should look like. “We wanted a real resort feel,” Marc says. “We bulldozed everything and started [from scratch] with a clean slate.”
By the time the Cookes reopened the park in 2008, the 60-Âacre campground had concrete roads and pads, a spacious pool and spa area, a marina and a white sand beach, with numerous palm trees along the lakefront. Campsites with modern hookups occupy a gentle hill sloping to the water and all offer views of the lake and the gorgeous sunsets which the Lake Livingston KOA is known for. In the years since, Cooke has added an onsite restaurant, a large clubhouse with patio overlooking the lake, cabins with full kitchens and baths, a laundry, and modern bathhouses with individual family baths.
Lakefront campsites at Lake Livingston KOA. [Photo by Marc Cooke]
The area wasn’t always so resortÂ-like. Through most of its history, Onalaska, the town next door to the campground, was a rough and ready lumber camp in the heart of the Piney Woods. In 1904, the Carlisle Lumber Company built the largest sawmill in Texas here and named the boom town that formed around it Onalaska, said to be derived from a Aleut Native American word meaning ”great land.” If the name sounds familiar, it may be because the Carlisle family founded timber towns of the same name in Wisconsin, Arkansas, and Washington State, all centered on sawmills.
At its height, Onalaska, Texas boasted two hotels, a hospital, movie theater, railroad depot, booming shopping district and electrical power. But by 1928, the supply of timber ran out and the lumber industry moved on. Soon just 80 people lived in the mostly abandoned town.
All that changed in 1969, when the city of Houston, located just 80 miles to the south, decided to dam the Trinity River to create Lake Livingston. The sandy bottomed lake, the second largest inside Texas at more than 39 miles long and seven miles wide, spurred a boom of tourism. The US 190 bridge next to the KOA is the only span crossing the lake.
Covering with 450 miles of shoreline, the man made lake completely changed the region’s economy. No longer defined by the forest, it’s now considered a “water wonderland,” and famous for its many watersports, including sailing, water skiing, and swimming. The lake also is a noted fishing spot for catching huge bass and catfish, with large mouth bass ranging up to two feet long, and the record for blue catfish standing at over 70 lbs.
The shaded pool at Lake Livingston/Onalaska KOA. [Photo/Kampgrounds of America, Inc]
Bowfishing for gar is one of the more unusual activities available. Expert bowfisherman Martin McIntyre, owner of Garquest, likens the sport to a combination of archery hunting and fishing, and leads trips to shoot trophy alligator gar, as well as several other large species including buffalo, grass carp and needlenose gar. McIntyre tells The Buzz that the clear water of Lake Livingston makes a good environment for targeting the “gator” gar, which sometimes reach over 7 feet in length.
It is very easy for KOA campers to get out on the water. The marina has 40 slips and a triple boat launch...and kayaks, standÂup paddleboards, paddleboats and pontoons are available for rent. “If you’re interested in watersports, this is a great location,” Marc Cooke says. “We’re on the calm side of the lake and it never feels crowded. And the lake is great for swimming.”
Livingston, the Polk County seat that gave its name to the lake, is about 15 miles from the KOA at Onalaska. Marc Cooke says that the town is noted for the many thrift shops, antique stores and mom ‘n pop diners lining the streets in the Historic Main Street District. Look for the “Sam the Fish” logo in windows to identify locally owned businesses.
Livingston’s biggest draw though is the monthly Trade Days, a weekend of garage sale style shopping. The outdoor market, held all year on the Friday, Saturday and Sunday before the third Monday of every month, takes place in beautiful Pedigo Park, on the edge of downtown off US 59 N., near its junction with US 190.
A direct descendant of markets held in the Wild West era, Trade Days offer everything from handmade rocking chairs to swords to Tupperware. Vendors also sell a selection of local products, including crafts, art objects, pottery, quilts, plants, food specialties and honey, as well as antiques and collectibles galore.
Recreating a tropical essence in the lands of East Texas has been a dream of The Cooke Brothers. With the continuing improvements and his specific vision, his KOA on the shores of Lake Livingston enjoys the yearÂ-round appeal of an island but with the continental texture that makes this park in Texas a welcoming beacon.
Business, Camping, Features, Industry Edge, RV Lifestyle, RV Parks, Texas