Scenic Route Awaits RV'ers at Colorado's West Elk Loop
This National Scenic Byway Is Not One To Leave Untraveled, Considering The Roadside Fruit Stands, Cowboy Camping Sites & RV Parks Along The Way
They say it is “like a lasso” stretching over Colorado's West Elk Mountains, anchored by former mining communities, including Carbondale, Redstone, Marble, Paonia, Hotchkiss, Gunnison, and Crested Butte. The distinct route is dubbed The West Elk Loop Scenic and Historic Byway, beginning some 70 miles from Aspen in a former coal mining town. The West Elk Loop encompasses high mountains and broad meadows, canyons, forests, and wilderness areas with fantastic camping and year 'round activities. Unique camping opportunities range from bare-bottom campgrounds to wonderful RV resorts, and everything between. Wilderness areas are everywhere: in national and state forests and parks, at Bureau of Land Management (BLM) areas, along with a variety of differing campsites in Black Canyon of The Gunnison National Park and Curecanti National Recreation Area, (NRA). There are unique ranch camping opportunities, complete with cowboy experiences. The West Elk Loop is not composed of one continuous highway, but includes Colorado Highways 133 and 135, Highway 92 and U.S. 50.
This beautiful Colorado Byway, also a National Scenic Byway, is one of 150 such National Byways so named because it is a “Gateway to Adventure where no two experiences are the same,” according to the US Department of Transportation. This part of Colorado's “Rocky Mountain High,” so beloved of Singer John Denver, provides vistas and recreation opportunities that are breathtaking. There is fascinating shopping and unique open air, fireside dining at historic ranches. You can go horseback riding, hiking, biking, ATV/Jeep rough country riding, hill climbing, mountain climbing, rock climbing, fishing, rafting, kayaking, swimming, and zip-lining. While you vacation in the most pristine environment remaining in the nation, there rests historical, cultural and archeological sites; unique craftsmen; and wonderful art galleries. You can almost imagine the refrains of Denver's well-loved song as you travel the West Elk Byway, looping around Colorado wilderness areas. In warm weather, so much fun things to do, not the least of which is wild rafting and even kayaking on the Gunnison River.
The really great thing for RVers is that the West Elk Loop Byway offers many various things to do within easy reach of such diverse RV campsites. All the while there is the clean air of the high Colorado West Elk Mountains. Herds of wild elk, bighorn sheep, deer, bison and other wildlife, including wild horses, each offer exciting photographic opportunities. Here, you must be careful of black bears, especially in early spring. All-season camping and recreation areas in Colorado along the West Elk Loop Scenic Byway offer everything from springtime flowering meadows, amid stretches of big ranches and farms, to winter photo “ops” that seem never-ending. In season, you can buy freshly picked cherries, nectarines, and other goodies at roadside stands. The small historic towns, all former coal and gold mining communities, offer intriguing cultural and artistic sites to explore. Keep in mind, however, that not all camping opportunities here are available year 'round. High elevations along this Byway restrict winter travel. Snow clogs high passes resulting in closures, November through April, within the “lasso” at McClure Pass, 8,756-ft, and Kebler Pass, 9,980-ft. Also keep in mind that many of the roads into this byway are made of gravel.
The 205-mile West Elk Loop Scenic and Historic Byway passes through five Colorado counties from its Carbondale start at 6,681-ft altitude in Garfield County on Colorado Highway 133. Carbondale, with its 6,427 population is just seven miles from free winter skiing along the 12-mile groomed area of Spring Gulch. Take in the ambience of Dad Long's Store, at 303 Main Street, where cowboys and farmers once swapped tales. Art of all kinds: including that of the blacksmith, ceramic makers, glass blowers, painters, photographers and more await, along with a self-guided town history tour. Carbondale boasts an annual Mountain Fair with three days of music, arts and crafts, along with an annual Potato Day in September. Just 18-miles south of Carbondale is the former coal mining town of Redstone with historic ovens on the west side of Highway 133, remnants of the days of coal processing not in use since the 20th Century. In town, take a weekend tour of Redstone Castle, an historic home filled with opulent European interior and furnishings. From Redstone, continue on Highway 133 to a southeast spur that turns off to Marble, CO where pristine marble is still shipped out of the country. With only census 131 people, Marble is home to the Yule Marble quarry which began operation in the 19th Century. Back to Highway 133, the West Elk Loop continues south to Paonia.
Paonia, with a population of 1,451 at 1,732 feet, is set in the North Fork Valley of Delta County, a region of ranches and fruit farms. Nearby are cattle and sheep ranches to visit or you can go gliding. Paonia hosts Crawford Pioneer Days the first week in June, Cherry Days over the Fourth of July, and a Mountain Harvest Festival in September. South of Paonia, along the West Loop Byway is Hotchkiss' population of 1,000. At 5,351-ft elevation, it is known as “The Friendliest Town Around,” home to annual Sheep Camp Stock Dog Trials, as well as Champion Fly Fishing on the Gunnison River. Also located in Delta County, Hotchkiss is a hub of winter-summer activities.
At the south side of the West Elk Loop is Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. With the sheerest drops of any North American gorge, spectacular in both its narrowness and height, 2,700 feet above the Gunnison River. Camping in the national park is available at various campgrounds that are also in the Curecanti NRA. There are two National Park Service campgrounds: the 88-site South Rim campground, and 13-site North Rim campground. Overnight fees are $10, although the North Rim is closed in winter. Each has pit toilets, tables and grills. More camping is at Ridgeway Lake and Crawford Lake Recreation Areas. Numerous campgrounds are along the canyon rim. These vary from a 160-site campground to one with just a single RV site. Camping can also be found near Gunnison.
Gunnison is equally a ranching and college city and the most populated community in Gunnison County. With a population of 5,854 at 7,703-ft, Gunnison is known as the “Base Camp of the Rockies.” Here, is a KOA Campground. While Gunnison's KOA is closed in winter, Carbondale/Crystal River KOA is open year 'round. Both feature paddle-boats in summer, tenting and RV sites. There are pull-thru's and back-ins/pull-ins, most with hookups for 30-50 amps. Without sewage, “Honey Truck” service is available. Both KOA's feature gift stores, propane and firewood sales, stocked trout ponds, Kamper Kabins and more. Both are pet friendly, although everywhere there are warnings about wildlife, especially bears. Dogs are restricted to well-peopled areas and not allowed on wildlife trails. Gunnison is home to Western State College University, and is a Rocky Mountain base for a variety of activities, including kayaking, canoeing, and white water rafting. Enjoy a hot spring soak at nearby Waunita Hot Springs Ranch, a family owned B&B and resort ranch at 8007 County Road 887. In town, take a step back in history at Gunnison Pioneer Museum, east of Highway 50. Open seven days a week and all holidays, from May 18 to Sept. 30, the hours are 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Adult entry is $10, children $3, under six years old free.
“We came for winter, but stayed for summer,” is the most often heard comment about the Crested Butte on the West Elk Byway Loop, according to an official at Ski Crested Butte, an area information source. Find Mount Crested Butte, which rises to 9,375-ft, in the town. Resorts at the base of the mountain, along with great dining, shopping, and museums make this a vacation paradise all year long. At 8,885-ft., the town has a population of 1,487 and is known as Colorado's Wildflower Capital.
Closed in winter, Crested Butte RV Resort, at 711 Riverland Drive, may have parking and power available. Depending on road openings after May 1, sites are available with water and 30/50 amp service, but lack sewage and dump site. Two miles away is Crested Butte RV Dump Station.
The Colorado Department of Transportation (CDOT) invites you to explore this area, but advises anyone using backcountry roads to be careful when parking and leaving vehicles along the road. Doing this runs the risk of breaking the law. Illegally parked vehicles will be towed by law enforcement. Some areas along the Byway may provide ample room to park several feet off the asphalt. Backcountry users should park only in clearly marked and designated areas, typically found at the summit of mountain passes and at some trail heads. But CDOT reminds vehicle owners that they run a risk in winter of being trapped, plowed in. “Our objective is to clear the roadway as quickly as possible so the highway is passable and safe for all travelers,” says Paul Wilson, DOT maintenance foreman. “Our crews work in all sorts of weather conditions. When visibility is low and a plow comes upon a parked vehicle on the roadside, there is potential for collision.” Vehicles could be damaged by a passing plow, putting operations behind schedule because of needed repairs or replacement of CDOT equipment.” For everyone’s sake and to make each RVer's journey trouble-free, keep visible and park in authorized areas.
Dollie Gull-Goldman
A veteran multimedia journalist who, now a senior, enthusiastically continues her RV travels, and she has worked as a photographer/filmmaker for early TV news, she spent some 20-years as a newspaper writer-editor/journalist. Dollie looks forward to even more RV on-the-road adventures.
Make Sure To Stay At:
Carbondale/CrystalRiver KOA, where Colorado's Rocky Mountain majesty surrounds campers in this lovely spot, spread along the banks of the Crystal River and at the foot of 12,965-foot Mount Sopris. Many sites nudge right along the half mile of riverfront, including roomy RV Sites