Superstitions are often based on some sort of truth. Even people who are not prone to superstition, have little confidence in its validation. In the words of Michael Scott from The Office, "I'm not superstitious, but I am a little stitious." In the paradise that is Hawaii, people have respect of the ancient goddess of the land Pele, who formed the land with volcanoes. They say if one takes some of the black sand or lava rocks from Hawaii, Pele will punish and the perpetrator will come upon a lot of bad luck. It is kind of cute, but maybe not, as many packages of sand and lava rock are sent back to Hawaii with letters asking for forgiveness and pleads to have the bad luck stop.
Whatever one's position on ancient Goddesses curses, a visit to Hawaii will show anyone unparalleled beauty as well as the humbling experience of literally witnessing the creation of land. No place is this more on display than at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. "They are certainly the basis of our identity - without volcanoes Hawaii would not exist," says Jessica Ferracane, Public Affairs Specialist for Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. The park is home to two of the world's most active volcanoes - Kilauea and Mauna Loa. It is also home to more than 335,000 acres of rainforest, blackened lava fields, and plants and birds not found anywhere else on earth. "Visitors are often taken by surprise when they get to the park about the environment," Ferracane says, "Kilauea Visitor Center is at the summit of Kilauea volcano, at the 4,000 foot elevation, and it's much cooler up here than at sea-level Hawaii."
Shot of volcano Kilauea erupting previously on the island.
There is plenty to do in the park. There are two main roads that visitors can utilize to experience the park - the Crater Rim Drive and the Chain of Craters Road. "People are continuously amazed and dazzled by a drive down Chain of Craters Road, where lava flows like the Mauna Ulu flow from 1969 to 1974 covered the road five times in lava," Ferracane says. The Crater Rim Drive takes folks through various viewpoints around the park starting at the visitor center. Kilauea Iki is a stop on the route and highlights a crater that is a mile long, 3,000 feet across and 400 feet below the overlook. The National Park Service website says, "Kilauea Iki looks fairly tranquil these days. But, in 1959 it was a seething lava lake, with lava fountains up to 1,900 feet." It is interesting to note how recent that was and how things change so quickly in active volcanic zones.
Speaking of change, the Goddess Pele was ready for some change this year and since May 11 the park shut down completely due to eruptions from Kilauea. "The park re-opened September 22 after a 134-day closure due to hazardous and increased volcanic and seismic activity," Ferracane says. In May of 2018, eruptions and earthquakes started and caused the park service to close the park. "Park roads, trails and buildings were damaged and we are still in recovery mode," Ferracane says. The park service issued a statement saying that 700 homes have been destroyed, particularly in the Leilani Estates subdivision in the end, with "the summit area of the park being dramatically changed by tens of thousands of earthquakes, towering ash plumes, and 62 massive collapse explosions." Naturally, this would dramatically affect the park and it's visitors. "The Crater Rim Trail offers views of Kilauea Caldera and the newly enlarged summit crater, Halemaumau which quadrupled in depth since the eruptions," Ferracane says.
The Leilani Estates area is interesting. It is clearly in the zone of being swallowed up by lava (it was, mostly), yet people chose to live there. Why? Well, for one it is affordable. Like the flood plains of the Mississippi, the land requires a more nomadic lifestyle as nature is not able to be controlled there. As such, it hearkens back to an older way of Hawaiian life - one that relies less on money and extravagance and more on the land, art, and community. The Guardian did a really interesting article on folks in this area - people who lived in communes and found ways to enjoy paradise without having to pay for it.
There are two campgrounds in the park - Kulanaokuaiki and Namakanipaio Campground. Namakanipaio will reopen very soon, while Kulanaokuaiki is open. One visitor says, "Off the beaten path. Free camping with Volcano NP admission or annual National Parks pass. Be prepared for lack of shade. There was only one other party at the campground when we camped on Oct 31st. Seeing the red glow of the volcano at night called to mind Mordor. I would definitely return to this campground -- the price is right!"
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is a special place that celebrates not only the Volcanoes that brought Hawaii into existence, but the people connected with the land so deeply. “We offer regular cultural demonstrations like la‘au lapa‘au, Hawaiian medicinal plants; lei making, and more at the Kilauea Visitor Center,” Ferracane says. And, along with the celebration, is an appreciation of the things destroyed giving way to more creation. As Ferracane says simply, in reflection, “It harkens to Pele. She destroys, yet she creates.”
Destinations, Hawaii, National Parks, Open Road, Outdoors, Travel