As nights become longer, it is perfect timing to head for one of the Dark Sky areas of the UK to do a little stargazing. These are areas where you can really experience the beauty of the night sky, without interference from man-made lights and urban areas.
The North Pennines are one of these areas. It has been recognized as the darkest mainland area of outstanding natural beauty in the UK, only the Scilly Isles are darker. On a clear night it is possible to see thousands of stars and enjoy the river of stars effect in our own galaxy, known as the Milky Way.
In October the North Pennines area is holding a spectacular two night star camp at the Doe Park Caravan Site in Teesdale. During that weekend, the moon will be in a partial phase revealing its deep craters and high mountains. It sets in the early hours of the morning revealing the full majesty of a night sky graced by the Milky Way and the wonderful autumn constellations.
Astronomer Richard Dann will be taking part in the Star Camp providing information and guidance. He commented, “Participants should be able to see quite a lot of the universe. Given clear weather, the furthest object you can see with your naked eye – the Andromeda Galaxy – will appear despite being 2.5 million light years away. It’s by far a more impressive object when viewed in dark skies. Same applies for the Milky Way – most Brits can’t see it from where they live, but in the North Pennines it’s a shining river of light. Mars will also still be visible and we may just catch Saturn before it sets in the west.”
He adds, “The USA – like the UK – suffers from very bad light pollution, but also has darker states like New Mexico, Nevada and Dakota. Their very best skies will be darker than ours in England – but many Americans live in so-called red zones for light pollution so the North Pennines to them would look excellent. Overhead it is a sky worthy of hosting a dark sky festival (I’ve regularly been to New Mexico and Arizona on astro trips so can make a valid comparison).
Caravan spaces need to be pre-booked as this is a very popular event. Everything you need to study the stars is provided, including binoculars, telescopes and cameras with tripods. Experts are at hand to provide advice and assistance, as well as information about the stars and moon.
It is set to be a really special event where you can socialize with fellow campers at a mulled wine reception, before embarking on a study of the stars. Warm clothing is recommended as it can get very chilly.
Small camper settled for the Star Camp with telescope ready. [Photo/Dave Williams]
Doe Park is the ideal location for this star camp as it is set in the grounds of a historic seventeenth century farmhouse, initially founded by a Roundhead during the Civil War in 1645. James Ledgard never managed to finish it – he is reported to have been hung, drawn and quartered on Romaldkirk village green! No one knows quite why this happened. The current owners have owned Doe Park for three generations, taking on the land prior to the First World War.
On site facilities are extremely good, and include a choice of hard-standing and grass pitches, laundry room and fresh milk, orange juice, free range farm eggs and locally made ice cream available. They can also arrange for meals of fish and chips to be delivered.
During the day, there are some fantastic places to explore. Teesdale is one of the many breathtaking dales, scattered along the Pennine mountain chain, which runs from north to south along the centre of Northern England. It is an area of superb scenery, majestic waterfalls, pastureland and small villages. Wherever you drive within this landscape, there is really stunning scenery to be enjoyed.
Perhaps a day in one of the little market towns would appeal? Barnard Castle was once the home of Richard III, and over the centuries a lovely town has grown up at the foot of the castle. Look for the octagonal Market Cross in the centre of town and try to spot the bullet holes in the weather vane – it is said these were the result of a shooting match between the local gamekeeper and a soldier in 1804. It is a great town for some shopping especially local food, retro, vintage and antiques.
Bishop Auckland is another pretty town with an unusual art gallery focusing on the lives of miners, and their experiences deep below the ground. Much of the art on display has actually been created by miners, and reflects how they feel about the life and work of a miner. Bishop Auckland Castle is due to reopen to the public next year following major renovation. This castle was the home of the Prince Bishops of Durham for over 900 years, and is surrounded by lavish gardens and an 800 acre deer park. The seventeenth century walled garden is scheduled to reopen next year with new displays. Anyone visiting during the summer period can book tickets for the splendid Kynren, an incredible, unique, nighttime spectacle involving drama, fireworks, music, dance and light displays telling the story of Northern England. Performances only take place at weekends between June and September.
Nature in Teesdale [Photo: NPAP/Shane Harris]
Not far away is the Bowes Museum which houses one of the best art collections outside London. From the outside the Bowes Museum looks like a French style chateau, but it only dates from the nineteenth century. Apart from the browsing among paintings by the likes of Canaletto, Van Dyke, El Greco, Goya and many others, there are superb collections of furniture, clothing and silverware. One of its most special treasures is the Silver Swan, a mechanical automaton, which still performs on a daily basis. The Swan preens, then bends to take a fish out of the water. The lovely gardens surrounding the museum encourage you to relax and meander.
The Star Camp is just one of the many events being held in this area as part of a two week long North Pennines Stargazing Festival. Other events include talks by well known astronomers, Astrophotography of the Milky Way and waterfalls, special star gazing suppers at the Lord Crewe Arms and skywatch activities at various sites like Killhope and Alston. One of the more unusual activities is the North Pennines at Night exhibition at the Durham Dales Centre in Stanhope during which projections of work by local photographers featuring the dark skies and landscapes of the area are shown to create an immersive experience.
Anyone wanting to explore the dark skies further has plenty of opportunities within the area. The North Pennines has its own observatory at Allen Heads which often holds events for non members, while further up in Northumberland, there are two observatories open to the public – Battlesteads hotel at Wark and Keilder Observatory, Kielder Forest. Both run a wide range of daily events which need to be booked in advance so as to ensure all participants have sufficient time with the telescopes.
Wark is a small village close to Hexham near Hadrians Wall. Battlesteads Hotel at Wark offers not just Dark Sky activities but a very welcoming pub environment. There are talks, drop in sessions, stargazing and Astro courses designed to suit everyone from novice to professional. Among the special events are Shooting star suppers, NightScape Photography, introduction to Astro-imaging, Deepsky Astrophotography and Moonwatch sessions.
Further north again at Kielder, the observatory is situated in a forest just a few miles from Scottish border. Typical events include introductions to Astronomy and how to navigate the sky, sessions on the Aurora Borealis, Night Sky Safari, Astrophotography, and Cosmology.
Kielder Forest is the largest man made forest in the England and possesses seasonal caravan facilities. Wild camping is possible at designated ‘backpacking’ sites, and are not accessible by vehicle. These remote sites are ideal ways of experiencing the dark skies but be warned – no open fires are allowed, and there are no facilities whatsoever. You have to bring in everything you need, and take everything including all rubbish away with you when you depart. Spaces have to be pre-booked.
Alternatively there are numerous standard campsites located just outside the forest boundaries. Driving from the North Pennines to Northumberland will take around two hours, with part of the journey using twisting, unlit roads so it is better to find space for parking an RV nearby.
The Hexham Campsites & Caravan Sites website lists 9 potential venues, some of which are open all year round, while others close for the winter at the end of October.
Apart from exploring the stars and the observatories, Northumberland has much to offer visitors. Built by the Romans, Hadrians Wall strides across the county. Keen walkers can follow the Hadrians Wall path from the Atlantic to the North Sea, from Cumbria to Newcastle upon Tyne – but be warned, it is a long 84 mile walk across fairly rough, open country. It generally takes people around 7 days to complete the entire path.
The views along the path are unbelievable. One of the locations – Steel Rig – has been used in countless films such as Robin Hood. It can feel very desolate, and when a certain George RR Martin visited the area some years ago, it inspired him to create The Wall in Game of Thrones.
Housesteads is one of the most impressive sights along the entire length of the wall. Built on an uphill slope, the Wall drops down almost vertically. The fort was massive, capable of housing hundreds of soldiers whose sole task was to walk and guard a Wall that stretched for miles in either direction.
Another good site to visit is Vindolanda. This was the site of a Roman town and is now the subject of an extensive excavation. It is so large that the excavation is expected to take another 200 years to complete. Treasures have been discovered that are totally unique and a visit to the on site museum reveals their full glory. These include hundreds of leather shoes, beautifully painted glass, baby sandals, pet dogs, baskets, leatherwork, a comb covered in graffiti and hundreds of letters including the first female writing in Western Europe. The Prefect’s wife was inviting friends to a children’s party. Other letters are much more practical and down to earth with lists of soldiers and their duties, as well as complaints about clothing, and that of Martimus who is told that he has ‘made his bed’ and has to live with it.