Awe inspiring mountains, craggy cliffs, beaches that stretch for miles, monuments that are thousands of years old and the constant beat of the Atlantic waves – this is the one of the most spectacular touring routes in the world. The Wild Atlantic Way stretching from Donegal to County Cork in Ireland is definitely wild and wonderful.
To really appreciate the entire route, visiting the various places of interest en route you need to allow a journey of at least three to four weeks. This is a dramatic, long, winding coastal route covering over 1,550 miles. It is incredibly visual, with stunning scenes around almost every corner as well as opportunities for water sports and lots of walking. The people are incredibly friendly, and spending an evening in the pub enjoying the chat (or craic as it is known) is a fantastic experience. All too frequently, people will just start playing music, singing or dancing.
You can choose to travel from north to south along the entire route, or take your time and focus on a specific section. Starting in the north in Donegal, you pass through amazing glaciate valleys, where the sheer granite walls drop steeply down to the Atlantic. It is a dangerous coastline, where many vessels came to grief until a network of eleven lighthouses was built to highlight the way. Millions of seabirds gather in the river estuaries creating at times an almost deafening wall of sound. This is where St Columba set sail for the Island of Iona and megalithic sites are a constant reminder of just how old this landscape actually is. Fairies and folklore are never far away in this enchanted landscape.
“Cliff Coast- Foynes Flying Boat exhibit” [Photo Credit: Visit Ireland]
Slightly further south, the long beaches are renowned for surfing and often attract international competitions. Connemara has some of the most impressive bays imaginable. The massive length of Clew Bay, for example, includes no less than 365 islets and islands. At times the shoreline seems almost like a lace shawl, stretched out across the ground. Care is needed if you stop for a walk along the coast as there are many bogs to be found. In fact, the first transatlantic flight ended in Derrigimlagh Bog here on the Atlantic Way. Not to be missed is The Burren, a vast limestone pavement that is crossed by countless ancient green tracks used by travelers across the centuries.
If you feel active, you can stop off at Croagh Patrick Visitor Centre and climb Ireland’s holiest mountain. Back in 441 AD, St Patrick fasted for 40 days on the very top of this mountain. It is now a popular pilgrimage site, as visitors follow in St Patrick’s footsteps. The journey to the top takes about two hours as it is quite a tough climb up the steep, rocky path.
Heading down to the southern peninsular between Kerry and Cork, the scenery becomes even more dramatic. The craggy landscape of Skellig Michael is a UNESCO world heritage site. This is pure walking country with numerous long distant trails, and Ireland’s highest mountains at Geokaun while the Kerry Cliffs rise over 1,000 feet from the crashing waves of the sea far below. A mountainous spine of land stretches out for miles into the Atlantic Ocean, offering at the far end an opportunity to experience a cable car ride across the Atlantic to Dursey Island.
“Walking on Valentia Island during a trek by the ocean.” [Photo Credit: Visit Ireland]
As you drive round the peninsula heading for the end of the Atlantic route, the scenery becomes gentler. This is much more sheltered landscape, with lots of sub tropical plants growing in the gardens. The pretty town of Kinsale is famous for its 18 hole golf course offering superb views of the ocean from every hole, as well as being the place closest to where the Lusitania sank in 1915 causing the deaths of nearly 1,200 people. If you like wine, a visit to the sixteenth century Desmond Castle is essential for this is the home of the International Museum of Wine.
Take time to plan and book ahead for this route. Wild camping and caravanning is not possible in Ireland. You cannot stay overnight in car parks, laybys or fields. There are laws in force that can penalize anyone who breaks these regulations, and repeated offences can result in your vehicle being impounded! You need to book pitches well in advance along the route at authorized camping or caravan sites.
To locate suitable sites to stay is actually quite easy: go to the Wild Atlantic Way website. This is an really useful website as it provides all the information you need to not only find suitable pitches, but also background details and itineraries covering every part of the Atlantic Way. Under each section are resources that that can be downloaded giving clear directions, and highlighting the key features that you will pass along the way. Research your route carefully to know exactly where you are planning to stop each night. Bear in mind that these are not straight roads, they wind and twist and it can take much longer to travel from A to B than you might anticipate.
Among the sites listed on the website are the Binion Bay Caravan Park in County Donegal which is ideal if you want family fun, whereas Pure Camping in County Clare is much more designed for people who enjoy the outdoor life. An environmentally friendly location, camping pitches are set amid woodlands. Down on the spectacular Ring of Kerry, the Glenross Caravan & Camping Park offers full facilities including a children’s playground and is within walking distance of local pubs and shops.