Park Ranger John Phillips Discusses Adventurous & Dark History Of Ghost Town In The Wilds Of Montana
The harsh cold air wafts through the still, stark buildings of Montana's Bannack State Park, wind whistling through an empty county jail – one of 60 buildings remaining from 1862 when Bannack was a gold mining town, the first large gold deposit discovered in Montana. But the town is best known not for its harsh weather or rough-and-tumble history, but its executions, said Park Ranger John Phillips.
In 1864 vigilantes hanged as many as 25 people in six weeks all across southwest Montana. This included five hangings within 48 hours in Bannack, including the town's sheriff Henry Plummer.
As Bannack's sheriff from 1863 to 1864, it was rumored Plummer had murdered several men. He was accused of being the leader of the Innocents, a gang of outlaws that preyed on shipments from Virginia City to other locations. Known as the “most lethal example of vigilante justice in American history,” the Vigilance Committee of Alder Gulch arrested Plummer and some of his associates before hanging them.
“Back then, Montana didn't exist yet. This was Idaho territory,” explains Phillips. “Because the territory was so huge there was no practical application of organized law and men took it upon themselves to bring law and order.”
The extreme vigilante activity in Bannack and the surrounding area basically created Montana, says Phillips. After Plummer's hanging it was put into the congressional record in two months, “an amazing speed at that time.” Something had to happen. Idaho was just “too big.” A new territory – Montana – was created in hopes of bringing more law, order and peace to the Midwest.
Bannack – the first large gold deposit discovered in Montana – was discovered by John White in 1862. From there, a town was erected in Bannack. As a typical gold mining town, in the first winter, there were 500 men and just 30 women in Bannack. The male dominated society was booming. In the second year there were 3,000 people.
People continued to mine at Bannack from 1862 to 1941 (gold mining was outlawed during WWII). The men came back after the war and continued mining up until 1968. Each year the population had dwindled, with 1,000 people living in Bannack in 1864, a fast decline.
With temperature recordings as low as negative 60 on numerous occasions, gold mining wasn't easy in Bannack. But it wasn't only the harsh environment that sent people packing: When industrial gold mining came to Bannack, less man-power was needed. Machinery took over, said Phillips.
One of the highlights of Bannack in present-day are the 60 remaining buildings that visitors can explore. While many are residential, it also includes the first jail house and court house in Montana, along with a school house. The preserved buildings have been left “as is,” said Phillips. “You can see layers of life. It's a place where imagination takes over. You can get a feel for the way people lived.”
One of Phillips favorite buildings is the school house, which he described as “in fabulous shape.” It was used from 1874 to 1947 and he has met a lot of people who went to school there. He noted: “I have a 94-year-old friend in Reno that went to school in that school house!” The connection to the past and present is a huge part of what makes Bannack special.
The buildings “clearly show how the town evolved over the years,” continues Phillips. Inside of the buildings are literal layers of history on the walls. Layers and layers of different wallpapers remain, some peeling to reveal more wallpaper or linolium.
According to Phillips, Bannack State Park is considered one of the best preserved ghost towns in the American West.
It's no surprise that Phillips – and all of the town's visitors – enjoy meandering through the stoic, still town and just imagine the life of the gold miners in the 1860s, the ghosts of vigilantes galloping on horseback through the dusty streets.
Olivia Richman
A graduate of East Connecticut State University in Journalism, Olivia has written for Stonebridge Press & Antiques Marketplace among others. She enjoys writing, running and video games.
Make Sure To Stay At:
Dillon KOA, where you can fish for browns and rainbows in Beaverhead River, a blue-ribbon stream bordering this campground with mountain views in every direction.