In the mood for adventure? Like dirt-road-crossing, river-fording adventure? Look no further than a trip to the Verde Hot Springs in Arizona, which showcases ruins of a remote, abandoned burned-out resort that still has tubs for soaking for those that venture out there. The Buzz is here to tell you how to get there and what to expect when you arrive!
Verde Hot Springs is on the border of Tonto National Forest and Coconino National Forest along the Verde River between Flagstaff and Phoenix, about 50 miles south of Sedona. The nearest sizable towns are Payson to the southeast and Camp Verde to the northwest. The road leading to the area where you can park is a 19-mile dirt road. Anyone who has spent any time on dirt roads in the West knows that it is a very, very long road! It is recommended to have 4WD and a high-clearance vehicle. If coming from the town of Payson, here are directions from the Payson Town website:
"Take Fossil Creek Road west about 11.8 miles (be cautious and take your time on this steep, windy road when it turns to dirt). Turn left on Forest Service Road 502 and proceed 5.8 miles to the Childs Power Plant Campground. Depending on the time of year you may need a high clearance vehicle (pickup/SUV) to drive the last ¼ mile."
Gateway to Sedona magazine states that the road ranges from "OK to downright dangerous," so it is important to take it slow. The campground is called Childs Power Plant Campground, after a former hydroelectric power plant that was built in 1908. According to the US Forest Service website, "In 1908 the Arizona Power Company began construction of the Childs Power Plant. For more than 90 years, the water of Fossil Creek had been diverted by a system of pipes and flumes from its natural course to power the turbines of the Childs and Irving hydroelectric plants. During this time, Fossil Creek had been reduced to a mere trickle, compared with the normal one million gallons per hour flow once witnessed by early inhabitants of the region."
Woman takes a soak in one of the smaller enclosed pools at Verde Hot Springs [Photo by Greg Walters-CC]
Now, there are ruins of the old power plant, as well as a dispersed camping area, where people can camp or boondock for free (no amenities) for five days. Once you park at the camping area, it is about a mile and a half hike to the resort area, according to a representative with Tonto National Forest. "It is way out there and on the other side of the river, so you have to wade through it," the representative says.
The resort is easily noticeably by palm trees, as well as frequent guests that are there almost every day. Wading through the river is not as difficult as it might seem, especially during the low season in Summer, where the river is often only up to your thighs. It is recommended to bring water shoes for wading and soaking.
Once at the old resort, there are a few options for soaking. The Town of Payson website states, "The water in the main pool is about 98 degrees F and there is enough room for several people. The pool is also quite deep, allowing for bathing without having to crouch down as with many other springs.” There is a small concrete-block room with a pool of water inside. It is recommended to drain and refill the pool before entering. First you will notice a hole with a constant flow of fresh water coming in. To drain the water, find the plug on the side of the wall at the bottom and pull out. After all the water is out, put the plug back in and the pool will fill in no time.
There are also pools of hot-spring water on the cliffside, where small caves have been cut. These pools are not the best for bathing and can be difficult to get into. Also, there are occasionally small, rock-lined pools along the river where the hot-spring water enters.
The remnants of the resort, itself, is a sight to see decorated with graffiti, colorful regulars (who are often nude FYI, even though technically nudity is prohibited), and a feeling of free spiritism not often felt in modern culture anymore. As previously stated, there are no amenities, so bringing food and water is a must. A great video of a visit is here.
Verde Hot Springs Resorts and Hotel was a hopping spot in the 1920s during the Jazz Age. As with any popular place in America in the Jazz Age, Al Capone was rumored to visit the resort. Although, as is true in almost all Al Capone folklore, there is no evidence to back that up. What is true is that the resort was built in the 1920s by Prescott businessmen. According to Touring Hot Springs Arizona: The State's Best Resorts and Rustic Soaks by Matt C. Bischoff, "The hotel contained twenty rooms, provided meals, and was furnished with electricity and heat. During the resort's heyday, the lodge was connected to the baths with a lighted walkway." The book explains how the resort declined in popularity in the 1940s, then an attempt to rejuvenate the resort occurred in 1958, until finally burning completely down to leave only the stone foundations in 1962.
The trip to Verde Hot Springs is not for everybody. However, if you need to fulfill that goal to get out of your comfort zone and interested in participating in the ancient custom of soaking in hot springs in one of the most unique environments of the country, then hop in your SUV or pickup and start the trek out - you won’t regret it.